WEBVTT Kind: captions Language: en 00:00:00.099 --> 00:00:04.290 If you live in North America, you’re probably familiar with electrical outlets that have 00:00:04.290 --> 00:00:06.380 a test and reset button. 00:00:06.380 --> 00:00:10.680 Older ones would have red and black buttons, but newer ones are usually matched to the 00:00:10.690 --> 00:00:12.480 color of the receptacle. 00:00:12.480 --> 00:00:16.090 If you’ve ever messed about with one of these and pressed the TEST button, you’ll 00:00:16.090 --> 00:00:19.580 have noticed it sort of POP with the RESET button sticking out a bit, 00:00:19.580 --> 00:00:22.210 and now the outlet is dead. 00:00:22.210 --> 00:00:24.360 To be fair, it told you to test it. 00:00:24.360 --> 00:00:28.440 But now you have to exert quite of bit of force to shove that reset button back in place 00:00:28.440 --> 00:00:30.660 before the outlet will work again. 00:00:30.660 --> 00:00:31.660 What is this for? 00:00:31.660 --> 00:00:34.809 Why are they usually only found in kitchens and bathrooms? 00:00:34.809 --> 00:00:36.719 Will I ask a fourth question? 00:00:36.719 --> 00:00:39.750 And how are they, as the title suggests, life-saving? 00:00:39.750 --> 00:00:45.800 Well, this is called (in Americaspeak) a ground-fault circuit interrupter, or GFCI. 00:00:45.800 --> 00:00:49.580 Sometimes they’re just called Ground-Fault Interrupters, or GFIs. 00:00:49.589 --> 00:00:54.079 The rest of the world calls them Residual Current Devices, or RCDs, and usually they 00:00:54.080 --> 00:00:57.910 aren’t found in the bathroom but in the service panel protecting the entire circuit 00:00:57.910 --> 00:00:59.980 (and sometimes the entire house). 00:00:59.980 --> 00:01:05.300 These simple devices use a fundamental principle of electricity to detect when an electric shock 00:01:05.300 --> 00:01:09.860 might be in progress, and can nearly instantly cut power to the circuit to stop 00:01:09.869 --> 00:01:11.740 said electric shock. 00:01:11.740 --> 00:01:15.520 The US electric code requires these outlets to be fitted when they are within a certain 00:01:15.520 --> 00:01:17.159 distance of a water source. 00:01:17.159 --> 00:01:21.380 That’s why they’re usually found in the kitchen and bathrooms, though electrical outlets 00:01:21.380 --> 00:01:26.090 found in other potentially wet locations, such as exterior outlets or those in a laundry 00:01:26.090 --> 00:01:29.740 room or garage, will usually require protection as well. 00:01:29.740 --> 00:01:33.740 The theory is that you’re much more likely to experience an electric shock near water, 00:01:33.740 --> 00:01:37.710 ‘cause water tends to conduct electricity pretty well and thus if your hands are wet 00:01:37.710 --> 00:01:42.630 or a power cord is wet, you’re at a significantly higher risk of electric shock when touching 00:01:42.630 --> 00:01:44.290 anything remotely electrical. 00:01:44.290 --> 00:01:48.429 Anyway, how do these devices determine if a shock might be happening, and thus how do 00:01:48.429 --> 00:01:50.159 they know they need to break the circuit? 00:01:50.159 --> 00:01:52.700 Well, part of the answer is in the name. 00:01:52.700 --> 00:01:58.039 The Americaspeak version, ground-fault circuit interrupter, suggests it can detect some problem 00:01:58.039 --> 00:01:59.789 related to the ground. 00:01:59.789 --> 00:02:04.409 The most-other-places name, Residual Current Device, suggests current is going somewhere 00:02:04.409 --> 00:02:05.409 it shouldn’t. 00:02:05.409 --> 00:02:09.380 I’ve always felt that both of these names compliment the other and make the issue easier 00:02:09.380 --> 00:02:12.680 to understand, but on their own they’re somewhat inadequate. 00:02:12.680 --> 00:02:17.220 Residual current is kinda the result of a ground fault, but what does that even mean? 00:02:17.540 --> 00:02:21.580 Well, in any ordinary circumstance, the current flowing out of one side of the outlet will 00:02:21.580 --> 00:02:24.830 exactly match the current flowing back into the other. 00:02:24.830 --> 00:02:27.340 There should always be a balance in an electric circuit 00:02:27.340 --> 00:02:30.220 between the hot supply and the neutral return. 00:02:30.220 --> 00:02:34.070 If you plug in a toaster, then for every unit of current flowing towards the toaster in 00:02:34.070 --> 00:02:38.450 this wire, there is an equal unit of current flowing away from it in the other. 00:02:38.450 --> 00:02:41.850 The same holds true for the reverse polarity of the A/C cycle. 00:02:41.850 --> 00:02:45.910 But if I were to get an electric shock from the toaster, perhaps by being a complete fool 00:02:45.910 --> 00:02:51.030 and sticking a knife down there like you should never ever do, kids, then some of the current 00:02:51.030 --> 00:02:54.440 coming from the outlet gets diverted through my body. 00:02:54.440 --> 00:02:58.000 Now, the current leaving the outlet is greater than the current returning, 00:02:58.000 --> 00:03:00.520 because some of it doesn’t actually return. 00:03:00.520 --> 00:03:04.870 There is now an imbalance between the current flowing out of the hot wire and back through 00:03:04.870 --> 00:03:06.400 the neutral wire. 00:03:06.400 --> 00:03:10.880 This fault condition is, from the outlet’s perspective, a ground fault. 00:03:10.880 --> 00:03:14.560 Some of the current is not returning to ground, or the neutral side. 00:03:14.560 --> 00:03:17.520 Somewhere outside the circuit, there is residual current. 00:03:17.530 --> 00:03:21.050 See, both names work, but they describe the problem differently. 00:03:21.050 --> 00:03:22.680 With a ground-fault detected, 00:03:22.680 --> 00:03:24.440 With residual current detected, 00:03:24.440 --> 00:03:25.500 the device needs to 00:03:25.500 --> 00:03:27.170 interrupt the circuit. 00:03:27.170 --> 00:03:29.670 So it’s a ground fault circuit interrupter. 00:03:29.670 --> 00:03:31.740 So it’s a residual current device. 00:03:31.740 --> 00:03:36.030 As a side note, I like the term ground-fault circuit interrupter better because it describes 00:03:36.030 --> 00:03:39.070 both what it detects and what it does. 00:03:39.070 --> 00:03:45.420 Even the 25% discount term, Ground Fault Interrupter, describes both the problem and the action. 00:03:45.420 --> 00:03:49.620 Residual current device is a little incomplete in describing its mission, but I will grant 00:03:49.620 --> 00:03:54.210 that residual current seems like a less-technical description than ground-fault. 00:03:54.210 --> 00:03:55.080 But whatever. 00:03:55.080 --> 00:03:59.340 Now, I’ve always found the best way to show how devices do what they do is to tear one apart. 00:03:59.340 --> 00:04:01.080 Off to the hardware store! 00:04:01.090 --> 00:04:02.310 I’m back! 00:04:02.310 --> 00:04:04.310 So let’s take a look at this thing. 00:04:04.310 --> 00:04:08.560 Like any electrical outlet, is has terminals for incoming hot and neutral, as well as a 00:04:08.560 --> 00:04:09.940 separate ground. 00:04:09.940 --> 00:04:11.900 But these ones here are a little interesting. 00:04:11.900 --> 00:04:15.990 See, most standard outlets have two pairs of terminals as well, but they’re connected 00:04:15.990 --> 00:04:17.700 by this little tab. 00:04:17.700 --> 00:04:22.420 This electrically joins the two halves together, so connecting just one pair of wires powers 00:04:22.420 --> 00:04:27.150 both sides of the outlet, and you easily can daisy-chain outlets together within a circuit. 00:04:27.150 --> 00:04:32.370 However, if you break the tabs off, now each outlet is wired separately. 00:04:32.370 --> 00:04:37.190 This is often done so that one pair of plugs can have two functions, with one side on a 00:04:37.190 --> 00:04:40.420 light switch for a lamp, and the other on all the time. 00:04:40.420 --> 00:04:44.870 But the second set of terminals on a GFCI is protected by its internal circuitry. 00:04:44.870 --> 00:04:47.800 That’s why they are labeled LINE and LOAD. 00:04:47.800 --> 00:04:52.051 Incoming power goes into the LINE terminals, and any outlets farther down the circuit that 00:04:52.051 --> 00:04:56.910 are attached to the LOAD terminals will also become ground-fault protected. 00:04:56.910 --> 00:05:00.960 The practical upshot of this is that in a chain of outlets on one circuit, only the 00:05:00.960 --> 00:05:03.790 first needs to be a GFCI receptacle. 00:05:03.790 --> 00:05:08.180 The rest downstream will all get protection, though there is a limit to how many you can 00:05:08.180 --> 00:05:12.150 string along depending on national and local electric codes. 00:05:12.150 --> 00:05:16.910 One little curiosity is that most outlets of this type can interrupt 20 amps, so although 00:05:16.910 --> 00:05:22.210 this is only a 15 amp receptacle, it can be placed in a 20 amp circuit and provide protection 00:05:22.210 --> 00:05:24.090 for other 20 amp receptacles. 00:05:24.090 --> 00:05:25.600 So, let’s open it up. 00:05:25.600 --> 00:05:29.610 With everything removed we find the four screw terminals mounted to a circuit board. 00:05:29.610 --> 00:05:34.370 These braided copper wires are carrying current from the line side through to the load side, 00:05:34.370 --> 00:05:39.310 and the top pair of switch contacts would normally energize the pins of the actual receptacle, 00:05:39.310 --> 00:05:42.390 which when assembled lie far above the circuit board. 00:05:42.390 --> 00:05:46.380 This nylon bracket can move back and forth, and it forms the actual switch that will break 00:05:46.380 --> 00:05:48.540 the circuit in a fault condition. 00:05:48.540 --> 00:05:52.780 It rests in the closed condition with the help of a latch, and a spring down below will 00:05:52.780 --> 00:05:57.400 keep it in the open position once enough force is exerted on it to overcome the latch. 00:05:57.400 --> 00:06:02.210 Now, this black cylinder piece is a tightly wound coil of wire called a solenoid, and 00:06:02.210 --> 00:06:05.920 when current is passed through it it creates a magnetic field which will force an iron 00:06:05.920 --> 00:06:08.690 plunger out of it in this direction. 00:06:08.690 --> 00:06:12.260 This plunger isn’t visible but it is what breaks the circuit. 00:06:12.260 --> 00:06:16.450 When the electronics detect a ground fault, they divert power into the solenoid which 00:06:16.450 --> 00:06:19.600 will push the plunger forward and thus kill the power. 00:06:19.600 --> 00:06:21.840 But how does it detect current leakage? 00:06:21.840 --> 00:06:26.070 Well, look closely at the path the electricity takes from the line connections through to 00:06:26.070 --> 00:06:27.669 the switch contacts. 00:06:27.669 --> 00:06:32.820 It goes via these busbars through a round doo-dad, and if we move this varistor out 00:06:32.820 --> 00:06:36.550 of the way we can see that inside is a coil of wire. 00:06:36.550 --> 00:06:40.470 This is the sense coil, and if you look on the bottom you find that this is what is being 00:06:40.470 --> 00:06:41.480 monitored. 00:06:41.480 --> 00:06:46.230 You can see that IC1 has its pins connected to the output of the coil, with some support 00:06:46.230 --> 00:06:47.740 components peppered in. 00:06:47.740 --> 00:06:50.139 And now we go back to school for a moment. 00:06:50.139 --> 00:06:54.890 You were likely taught that when current passes through a wire, it generates a magnetic field. 00:06:54.890 --> 00:06:59.790 Likewise, when a magnetic field encounters a wire, it induces a current in the wire. 00:06:59.790 --> 00:07:04.330 Basic stuff, but this is exactly the principle that makes the GFCI work. 00:07:04.330 --> 00:07:09.050 See, in a normal condition, whatever unit of current is going up through this side is 00:07:09.050 --> 00:07:11.770 also going down through that side. 00:07:11.770 --> 00:07:16.010 The current going to the toaster as before, goes up this side, and the current coming 00:07:16.010 --> 00:07:18.810 back from it goes down that side. 00:07:18.810 --> 00:07:22.040 Of course that’s constantly switching back and forth due to the fact that we’re dealing 00:07:22.040 --> 00:07:26.169 with A/C electricity, but they are always opposite directions. 00:07:26.169 --> 00:07:30.610 Both bus bars generate a pretty sizeable magnetic field around them depending of course on the 00:07:30.610 --> 00:07:36.230 load, but because they are going in opposite directions the fields cancel each other out. 00:07:36.230 --> 00:07:40.410 That means that normally, no current is actually induced in the sense coil. 00:07:40.410 --> 00:07:44.270 Even though there are two magnetic fields being generated, they are of equal amount 00:07:44.270 --> 00:07:47.920 and opposite polarity, so the net result is zero. 00:07:47.920 --> 00:07:52.570 But if there’s any imbalance at all between the current going up one side and down the 00:07:52.570 --> 00:07:57.950 other, now the magnetic fields are no longer in equal opposition and they don’t entirely 00:07:57.950 --> 00:07:59.240 cancel out. 00:07:59.240 --> 00:08:04.540 A tiny imbalance generates enough current in the sense coil for the electronics to detect, 00:08:04.540 --> 00:08:08.980 and as soon as they do so the solenoid fires and disconnects the circuit. 00:08:08.980 --> 00:08:13.180 Most devices like this are designed to break the circuit in 30 milliseconds or less, and 00:08:13.180 --> 00:08:18.169 in the US they are designed to trip with only 5 milliamps of leakage current. 00:08:18.169 --> 00:08:20.330 So what’s the real-world use of this? 00:08:20.330 --> 00:08:21.330 Let me show you. 00:08:21.330 --> 00:08:24.080 A word of caution for the following demonstrations. 00:08:24.080 --> 00:08:25.800 What I’m doing is pretty dangerous. 00:08:25.800 --> 00:08:30.870 Energizing exposed terminals at line voltage is not something you should casually do. 00:08:30.870 --> 00:08:33.890 Let me do the dangerous stuff, and please don’t try this at home. 00:08:33.890 --> 00:08:38.769 I’ve wired up this naked GFCI to a plug and I’ve put a few of things on its output. 00:08:38.769 --> 00:08:42.119 First, a standard light socket with a standard bulb. 00:08:42.119 --> 00:08:46.770 Second, the same light socket but with an adapter for an itty bitty bulb, and this one’s 00:08:46.770 --> 00:08:48.040 wired correctly. 00:08:48.040 --> 00:08:53.230 And third, the same light socket and adapter, but this time it’s wired incorrectly. 00:08:53.230 --> 00:08:55.350 So right now, everything looks good. 00:08:55.350 --> 00:08:59.330 The current exiting the plug always matches the current returning, so the electronics 00:08:59.330 --> 00:09:02.139 don’t intervene and the light stays lit. 00:09:02.139 --> 00:09:06.449 Now I’m going to screw this little 5 watt bulb into the top light socket. 00:09:06.449 --> 00:09:08.880 Nothing happens, it just comes on. 00:09:08.880 --> 00:09:11.629 But now I’ll tighten the light on the bottom. 00:09:11.629 --> 00:09:16.920 As soon as it makes contact, the electronics in the GFCI intervene, firing the solenoid, 00:09:16.920 --> 00:09:18.470 and breaking the circuit. 00:09:18.470 --> 00:09:19.470 But why? 00:09:19.470 --> 00:09:23.180 Well, the second light socket was wired with a deliberate ground fault. 00:09:23.180 --> 00:09:28.130 I attached its hot wire to the monitored output of the GFCI just like the the first one, but 00:09:28.130 --> 00:09:32.640 its neutral wire was hooked into the supply neutral of the outlet, therefore bypassing 00:09:32.640 --> 00:09:34.240 the sense coil. 00:09:34.240 --> 00:09:38.639 This meant that the current that flowed out through this wire and into the bulb didn’t 00:09:38.639 --> 00:09:40.839 take the same path back to the outlet. 00:09:40.839 --> 00:09:45.420 It leaked out somewhere (in this case just to here), and the outlet could detect the 00:09:45.420 --> 00:09:48.660 resulting current imbalance through the sense coil. 00:09:48.660 --> 00:09:53.480 Even though this lamp is really small, passing only 41 milliamps when it’s lit, the GFCI 00:09:53.480 --> 00:09:56.820 could immediately detect the fault and broke the circuit. 00:10:15.260 --> 00:10:19.000 The second lamp is analogous to someone getting an electric shock. 00:10:19.009 --> 00:10:22.600 Current flowed out of the outlet, but it didn’t make its way back in. 00:10:22.600 --> 00:10:27.060 If this were a human body rather than a light bulb, said human could be in for a 00:10:27.060 --> 00:10:28.920 shocking experience. 00:10:28.920 --> 00:10:33.279 But thanks to the GFCI, the fault condition was immediately detected and the current flow 00:10:33.280 --> 00:10:34.620 was stopped. 00:10:35.980 --> 00:10:37.910 Let me show you how fast this happens. 00:10:37.910 --> 00:10:41.769 I’ve disconnected the return wire so I can just push it against the contacts. 00:10:41.769 --> 00:10:47.220 If I go to this contact nothing happens because the current is taking the correct path to ground. 00:10:47.220 --> 00:10:50.600 The current returning from the bulb goes through the sense coil. 00:10:50.610 --> 00:10:55.730 But if I just barely brush against the incoming neutral connection, causing the return current 00:10:55.730 --> 00:11:00.889 to flow outside the sense coil, it detects the imbalance imperceptibly quickly. 00:11:00.889 --> 00:11:02.589 And that’s why these are life savers. 00:11:02.589 --> 00:11:06.660 Imagine you’ve plugged your hair dryer into the outlet in your bathroom, and the cord 00:11:06.660 --> 00:11:07.889 is frayed. 00:11:07.889 --> 00:11:11.959 You might have never noticed it, but if you touched that wire with a wet hand you’d 00:11:11.959 --> 00:11:14.010 be in for a nasty shock. 00:11:14.010 --> 00:11:18.189 But if plugged into a ground fault interrupter, almost immediately the current flow would 00:11:18.189 --> 00:11:21.290 be stopped and your life may very well have been saved. 00:11:21.290 --> 00:11:24.820 And that’s why most modern devices that are going to be used in the bathroom, 00:11:24.820 --> 00:11:26.000 like a hair dryer, 00:11:26.000 --> 00:11:30.429 are required to have a GFCI built into their power plugs here in the US. 00:11:30.429 --> 00:11:34.680 There are plenty of older homes without GFCI equipped receptacles, 00:11:34.680 --> 00:11:37.059 and for these your-hands-will-definitely-be-wet 00:11:37.059 --> 00:11:39.619 scenarios, it’s better safe than sorry. 00:11:39.619 --> 00:11:41.200 And now, some other things! 00:11:41.200 --> 00:11:45.000 First, in the US, these generally are NOT circuit breakers. 00:11:45.920 --> 00:11:49.380 OK, yes they are, but I mean they don’t protect against short circuits 00:11:49.380 --> 00:11:50.960 or excessive current. 00:11:50.960 --> 00:11:55.300 They are not a replacement for a traditional circuit breaker but are instead a supplement 00:11:55.309 --> 00:11:56.319 to them. 00:11:56.320 --> 00:12:00.900 They do not duplicate the overcurrent protection of your standard circuit breaker or fuse. 00:12:00.900 --> 00:12:04.760 Many GFCI receptacles here in the US have an LED to indicate... 00:12:04.760 --> 00:12:06.000 something. 00:12:06.010 --> 00:12:08.879 The state that is being indicated is entirely nonstandard. 00:12:08.879 --> 00:12:12.809 Many, such as these, have a light indicating that it’s working. 00:12:12.809 --> 00:12:16.119 Presumably that light would go out if the protection has failed. 00:12:16.119 --> 00:12:20.059 But I’ve also seen plugs where the light is normally out, but comes on when the outlet 00:12:20.059 --> 00:12:21.529 has tripped! 00:12:21.529 --> 00:12:25.779 And these ones in my kitchen are normally green and are off when tripped, but when you 00:12:25.779 --> 00:12:28.319 reset them, they briefly illuminate red. 00:12:28.319 --> 00:12:32.790 So probably, they would light up red if the protection circuit had failed. 00:12:32.790 --> 00:12:33.790 Which does happen. 00:12:33.790 --> 00:12:36.720 That’s why they are all labeled “TEST MONTHLY”. 00:12:36.720 --> 00:12:40.759 And the neat thing about the test is that this actually creates a ground fault! 00:12:40.759 --> 00:12:45.309 You might have noticed this resistor apparently randomly sticking up from the circuit board. 00:12:45.309 --> 00:12:49.959 This resistor creates a path to the incoming neutral, and pressing the TEST button shunts 00:12:49.959 --> 00:12:52.480 this resistor to the monitored hot. 00:12:52.480 --> 00:12:56.319 So by pressing the TEST button, you are for real testing its ability to detect a ground 00:12:56.319 --> 00:13:00.630 fault because you actually are creating a ground-fault internally. 00:13:00.630 --> 00:13:04.839 Even better, the resistor is sized to roughly match the minimum leakage it’s designed 00:13:04.839 --> 00:13:05.940 to detect. 00:13:05.940 --> 00:13:10.329 So definitely test these periodically, especially since leaving them in the non-tripped position 00:13:10.329 --> 00:13:15.509 for a couple of dozen years might make them mechanically seized up and prevent them from 00:13:15.509 --> 00:13:17.890 doing their job should the need arise. 00:13:17.890 --> 00:13:21.809 You might be wondering why we in the US put these in outlet boxes when others put them 00:13:21.809 --> 00:13:23.529 in service panels. 00:13:23.529 --> 00:13:26.000 Well there’s pros and cons to each method. 00:13:26.000 --> 00:13:30.739 Doing it in the US fashion makes it obvious if any installation is up to code, as a lack 00:13:30.739 --> 00:13:35.600 of GFCI outlets in a bathroom or kitchen means an obvious fail. 00:13:35.600 --> 00:13:40.369 It also probably encourages testing if the device is easy to access rather than being 00:13:40.369 --> 00:13:42.050 part of a circuit breaker panel. 00:13:42.050 --> 00:13:46.139 However, there is a benefit to having this protection in all areas of the home. 00:13:46.139 --> 00:13:50.560 Sure, an electric shock is more likely in wet places, but it’s not like no one has 00:13:50.560 --> 00:13:52.829 ever received a shock in their bedroom or whatever. 00:13:52.829 --> 00:13:57.819 Plus, in many countries, residual current devices are combined with circuit breakers, 00:13:57.819 --> 00:14:03.959 forming one device called an RCBO, for Residual Current circuit-Breaker with Overcurrent protection. 00:14:03.959 --> 00:14:08.410 But putting the protection in the service panel makes troubleshooting a whole lot harder. 00:14:08.410 --> 00:14:12.809 If something malfunctions and causes a ground fault anywhere in the circuit, you might be 00:14:12.809 --> 00:14:17.680 spending a long time determining what device is actually causing the fault. 00:14:17.680 --> 00:14:21.089 Putting the protection at the outlet makes it rather obvious. 00:14:21.089 --> 00:14:24.720 One thing that I discovered when tearing this apart is that the internal contacts are able 00:14:24.720 --> 00:14:28.149 to accomodate a NEMA 5-20 plug. 00:14:28.149 --> 00:14:33.369 Normally US devices that require 20 amps will have this plug where one pin is sideways, 00:14:33.369 --> 00:14:36.550 thus preventing you from plugging it into a 15 amp circuit. 00:14:36.550 --> 00:14:41.399 The fact that this device has internal pins capable of accepting this plug, plus the fact 00:14:41.399 --> 00:14:46.480 that it can break 20 amps as most GFCI outlets can, means the only thing preventing this 00:14:46.480 --> 00:14:53.730 receptacle from actually being a 20 amp receptacle is the shape of the holes on the plastic faceplate. 00:14:53.730 --> 00:14:58.420 Which means that, in the case of this particular model anyway, they charge you $3 more for 00:14:58.420 --> 00:15:02.170 the same product with a slightly different piece of plastic on the front. 00:15:02.170 --> 00:15:03.170 Yay. 00:15:03.170 --> 00:15:06.720 And finally, though these are super helpful at reducing the chance of injury or death 00:15:06.720 --> 00:15:11.319 due to an electric shock, they shouldn’t be seen as an excuse to be reckless around 00:15:11.319 --> 00:15:12.350 electricity. 00:15:12.350 --> 00:15:17.129 They are a very effective safety net, but why risk falling in the first place? 00:15:17.129 --> 00:15:20.690 That said, if you’re a tinkerer who likes to work on electronics, installing one of 00:15:20.690 --> 00:15:23.920 these in your workshop might be a very good investment. 00:15:23.920 --> 00:15:27.060 At the very least, it might spare you the pain of a zap. 00:15:27.060 --> 00:15:28.880 Thanks for watching, I hope you enjoyed the video! 00:15:28.880 --> 00:15:32.459 If this is your first time coming across the channel and you liked what you saw, please 00:15:32.459 --> 00:15:34.119 consider subscribing! 00:15:34.119 --> 00:15:38.250 As always, thank you to everyone who supports this channel on Patreon, especially the fine 00:15:38.250 --> 00:15:41.009 folks that are scrolling up your screen. 00:15:41.009 --> 00:15:43.959 Patrons of the channel are what keep these videos coming, and if you’re interested 00:15:43.959 --> 00:15:46.640 in pledging some support for the channel and helping it to grow, 00:15:46.640 --> 00:15:48.680 please check out my Patreon page. 00:15:48.680 --> 00:15:51.340 Thank you for your consideration, and I’ll see you next time!